Miami-Abaco – Dec 2004  

Arrived by plane at Fort Lauderdale at about 11:30 , Herve picked me up, drove to the boat.No gang plank, but we managed to get all the gear on board, even the heavy sea kayak.The boat was a mess, and between loading all the gear and stowing it, tying the kayak and the bowsprit that FYC had asked Mama Cocha to take to Marsh Harbor , we did manage to slip the lines at 2 am Dec 26/04  

Leaving Miami , it was warm, not much wind and a parade of cargo vessels which we had to get through. No Prob. Raised the sails. At 4 am the wind was dead aft, so we furled the genoa.. Winds were approx 20 knots and we were making good time at 8 kts.  

At 6 am the front that had been predicted for much later in the day caught up with us and the promised 25 kts turned into 40. Gibed, rather a little harder then intended, which broke the starboard jack lines (in fact, one of the knots in the line to the stack pack had come undone). Shortly after decided to drop the main which, without the help of the stack pack, went all over the cabin roof.  

The seas had come up a fair amount and with me at the wheel, trying to keep the bow into the wind, Herve managed to get a line around the main to tie it down. Staying into the wind, with the wind and seas we had was a bit of a feat, even with the wheel hard over, there were times when MC took a long time to react. We thought THAT was a wild ride!  

At one point I couldn’t see Herve (I did know he had a safety harness on and was clipped on), but it still was a heart stopper. Turned out he was on top of the bimini, working on getting the main lashed down. It was a hell of a job.  

After that we had little choice but to motor and the seas and wind where still building, confused between the gulf stream and the shifting winds, luckily mostly up our tuff.

The swells we running at 20 to 25 feet, winds 40-45 knots, it was ‘interesting’. The autopilot couldn’t cope with this combination, so Herve was on the wheel until we were along side in West End   - 5 hours, having a fair amount of helm to deal with.  

We had already recorded top speed on 15.5 kts. By 10 am the waves were huge. Talk about towering seas! Mama Cocha handled them well.  

Coming up to Great  Bahama we had to motor along the coast which put the seas on our beam, not a good place to be, but again, between Herve helmsmanship and MC’s ability to ride over them we got through that too.  

The entrance to West End was very narrow, with breakwaters on either side. With the wave action right up our tuff, and a little verbal encouragement from us, Herve managed to get on top of a roller and we surfed in, again hitting 15.5 kts. Somewhere along the line mid morning we had hit a top wind speed of 49.7 kts.  

We got in safely, if not exhausted, got alongside the wall and Herve went to put his head down and didn’t wake up again until 6pm .

We had not cleared customs yet, but they had by now closed up for the night.  

West End is all closed up at this time as a result from the hurricanes, they hope to open up again in March. The propane range would not light up, luckily enough the micro worked as we found out the next morning, so we had a meal of cheese and biscuits, watched about 20 minutes of a movie and were in our bunks shortly after 8pm. Oh Yes, Did I mentioned that it was freezing cold as well, and very wet at times. I was looking forward to a shower, but didn’t have the energy.

On the wall, we were being blown off. Several times during the night H got up to move fenders as the wind veered and at one point as the stern lines came loose Herve started the port engine (under my bunk) to keep the stern from being blown off the wall totally. That woke me up awfully quickly.  

Dec 27^th.

Got up to go and clear customs, right in front of us, and at first they gave us a hard time that we hadn’t cleared in the day before, mentioning seizure of the boat etc, but they soon stopped giving us a hard time, specially after H lent them about 10 DVD to watch as they had nothing else to do anyway.  

Pottered around the boat, tried to bypass the solenoid by the propane tanks, as that seemed to be the problem, but didn’t have the right fitting – so still no gas. Did manage to re-rig the jackstay and were happy to find that the pool in the top of the pack wasn’t broken.  

Met Debbie and Dave, who had missed the entrance on Christmas Eve and had run aground on the north end of the island. Since then they had drifted off again, only to end up with their anchor line fouled around the prop. While we were having a drink on MC, a guy called Buddie showed up to dive down and see if he could release the anchor line. Haven’t seen or heard from them, so hope it worked.  

There were only 3 other boats in the marina – one not manned, but spoke to the other folk. They had come in the day before under good conditions and had seen us surf through the gap, and we somewhat astounded that we made it safely.  

Did get my –lovely- hot shower, and went back below for a sleep.

Since there are only so many things you can cook in a micro, H had sussed out that there was a Tavern in town which was open. He was told that it was about a 20 minute walk. When we got to the entrance to Old Bahama Bay Resort, we asked the guy on duty there for directions, and he called a car to pick us up. Good thing, because it was a lot farther than the mentioned 20 minute walk!  As we got there, it turned out to be the local hangout, 4 two person tables, a bar and a lot of Christmas music. Between the music, the TV and the loud conversations of the locals, it was virtually impossible to exchange a word.  

When we first arrived, we were told that there was no more food! Great, we were both hungry by now. But….they managed to find some conch and served us cracked conch with French fries – and it tasted out of this world. Got a ride back to the boat and crashed.  

Dec 28th

Up at 7.30 am  

Had coffee, at least the micro can boil water, slipped the lines and clear of the entrance at 8.20. No sign of any swell, pretty calm, but as we were to find out soon, wind on the nose while motoring across the Bahama Bank creates a lot of Hobby Horsing. Even when the wind came up, 28 kts, we were barely making 4 kts – so we had a long ride ahead of us.  

2.30 pm , passed north of Mangrove Cay, and since we had altered course to try and make use of the wind (to no avail) it wasn’t going to give us the use of the wind, another 8 hours to go (at least)  

It didn’t turn out to be 8 hours, and at 7.20 pm we approached Great Sale in the pitch dark. Full cloud overhead, no lights on land, and we set the anchor first time in about 8 feet of water. A desolate anchorage, but calm after motoring into the wind all day, averaging 4.1 kts.  

I managed to make Chicken a la King in the microwave, and once at anchor cooked the rice. Found we had no salt or pepper on board, but all in all it didn’t taste too bad.

Early night again, very calm and quiet compared to what we had had so far.  

Dec 29th

I was up at 6 after a good night sleep, and Herve appeared  at 7 am . Made coffee, raised the anchor and were underway at 7.40. Had two hours of more of the same as the day before, hobby horsing into the wind to the waypoint at Little Sale. Winds still well into he 20’s and on the nose. Once we cleared the L.Sale waypoint we could lay off a bit, and raised the main only to be hit by another front with 30+ kts of wind. It didn’t last long, and although  still cold, the are hints of sunshine in our future.

After Salt Rock, we bore off a little more and could actually sail, hallelujah.  

Heading for Spanish Cay, which we wanted to make in daylight saw a lonesome dolphin, but he didn’t feel like playing with our bows, so no pictures.  

Were in our slip at 3.15 pm. Cleaned the boat and finally got out of our foul weather gear and the layers of clothing we had been wearing.

The cook from the Marina was there and told us she could serve us grouper that night. After a much needed shower and a drink on board we headed over to the restaurant. The Meal was fantastic, my first ‘real’ meal since Christmas Eve. Lots of veg, delicious grouper in a wonderful sauce. Hats off to Sharon , incidentally a Dutch Canadian Lady! The harbor master was a girl called Suzanne from Quebec .

Chatted with some of the yachties that were at Spanish Key as well and had a pleasant evening. The island is privately owned (with prices to match).

 Dec 30th  

Woke up at 4 am , got up at 6. When Herve got up he lowered and tried the dinghy engine – no go. Got the mechanic involved who established that the throttle was seized and without taking it all apart and putting in a new gasket, would work only at full speed.  

Slipped the lines at 9.30 am , motored out passed the sandbars and set sail. Still pretty chilly, although now down to shorts and foul weather jackets. Winds still blowing at 20 kts and under sail did some stints over 9 kts.  

Went into Green Turtle, came long side the T at about 12.30. Talked to some more yachties and a older gentleman with a 75’ power boat (at 20 kts it burns `160 gallons of fuel an hour!!!)Many more boats in here both at slips and on moorings. Got talking to a couple, Lynn and Scott. The had bought a boat the year previous and were easing into the yachty live. Last year was 3 months, this year 6, next year 9. Their bowsprit was just about gone, not due to an accident, but through rot. The have a bit of work to do an the boat and plan to stay at Green Turtle for a few weeks before heading south.  

Herve showed them around Mama Cocha, and they were duly impressed.

Ordered Dinner for tonight, had some lunch on board, and Herve went to put his head down again. Boy, do I wish I could nap/sleep like that.  

Pottered around the boat, tidying up, sun showed its face regularly, but wind is still chilly. Went to the store for some orange juice – prices out of this world!

 Had dinner ashore with Bruce (whom we had met in Spanish as well),a single hander who only left home in Florida a week ago and already has used all his spare parts for the bilge pump and lost his dinghy. He had also lost his life ring, which happens to be the one we picked up leaving West End , so it is now duly returned to its rightful owner.  

He’s planning to go south, has a 30’, 30 year old mono with more gear on board then you can shake a stick at. Nice guy, and we promised to stay in touch  

Tomorrow we have to pass the Whale. This means going straight into the wind again, out into the Atlantic , around Whale Cay and back in. At this time the weather is such that it will be a very uncomfortable passage, but we’ll see what tomorrow brings.  

Dec 31th

Slipped lines just after 10, and passed the Whale. Seas were running between 6 and 8 feet, apparent wind 20-25 kts, on the nose of course, but in Mama Cocha it was no big deal. Once in the lee of Guana Cay seas flattened out, but no chance to sail with the wind the way it is.

Tied up at Great Guana, Orchid Bay Marina at 1.30

The sun was out but the wind still cold. Caught up with some sleep (not my strong point at any time) and wondered around the harbour over to Nippers, which faces the Atlantic . Beautiful beach, probably fantastic snorkeling. Booked dinner for 8 o’clock . It was an all inclusive, dinner, party favours, fireworks. Dinner was ho hum, and I was well asleep back on the boat before the fireworks, so the year changed without me.

  Jan 1, 2005

I was up again at 6 am , had a wonderful shower ashore and when I finally couldn’t wait any longer, started the Microwave to boil water for my coffee. (It always wakes Herve up, but he’s soon back asleep). Slowly the rest of the world came awake and it looked like a lovely day.  

Slipped the lines at 9.30 and it looked like ideal sailing weather, our first 15 kts! for all of 5 minutes. Back up to 20 to 25 apparent, sweater time and on the nose, but a great sail nonetheless. Since we didn’t have far to go we decided to put into Hopetown for lunch.  

Hopetown is an incredibly picturesque place, an almost enclosed harbour and very busy compared to what we had seen so far. There are a few docks, all taken, and since the dinghy engine didn’t work we just motored around and left. (in order to use the oars, we would have to have lifted the motor of the stern onto Mama Cocha, and neither of us wanted to put our backs out).  

Motored over to Boat Harbor (on the east side of March Harbor ), Mama Cocha’s new home. Couldn’t raise Florida yacht Charters so when along side the fuel dock. There we found out that Uncle Bob, the FYC local man, monitors 66 and he was over in a flash. What was even more incredible was that he had the outboard motor going in no time, and not much later the gas for the stove!!! This guy is good!!  

Moved another boat to give MC a slip, along side La Gata, a Lagoon 38, also in charter with FYC. Had a couple of drinks with the owners and Uncle Bob, before I went below and crashed.  

I actually fell asleep and it was a shock to the system when Herve woke me up at about 6 to say it was time to go over to Uncle Bob’s office for pre dinner drinks. Had a drink, went over to the marina’s restaurant to have dinner with Bob, met an American citrus grower, who also joined us and had a fabulous meal of seared tuna.

Had a restless night, up again at 6 to still winds of 20 kts.  

Jan 2nd  

With the stove now working a managed to make myself a coffee first thing!! Today will be time to clean, pack and fly back to Miami . Tomorrow back to Buffalo and home to Canada and the ‘real’ world.  

This trip has been an experience of a lifetime, with the weather we have had, but also a realization that it’s worth coming back to the Abaco’s one day.

Mama Cocha has proven, again, to be a fabulous boat. She has handled all the weather that has been thrown at her, is incredibly comfortable, even in rough weather and definitely in the flatter seas of the Abacos.

The people here are very friendly and Uncle Bob is the best!

Thanks, Mama Cocha and Herve, for giving me the experience of 1200+ nm in all kinds of weather, seeing new places, meeting new friends.  

Loonie